Buying Guide
Vehicle Inspection Checklist
Complete checklist to systematically inspect a used car before making an offer. Takes 15β20 minutes to complete.
15 min read
Updated October 2026
Exterior Inspection (5 minutes)
- Overall condition: Walk around the car. Does it look well-maintained? Any obvious damage?
- Paint and rust: Look for rust bubbles, areas of mismatched paint (sign of repainting), or excessive corrosion.
- Dents and scratches: Take photos of any damage. Deep dents or scratches suggest poor care or accident history.
- Glass and lights: Check for cracks in windows, mirrors. Test all lights (headlights, tail lights, brake lights, indicators).
- Trim and bumpers: Look for broken trim, cracked bumpers, or signs of impact.
- Doors and locks: Open/close all doors smoothly? Do locks work? Any stuck hinges?
Tires and Suspension (3 minutes)
- Tire tread: Place a coin into the tread. If you can see the top of the coin, tread is too low. Minimum 2mm depth required by law.
- Tire wear pattern: Even wear across all tires = good. Uneven wear (inner or outer edges worn more) = suspension or alignment problems.
- Tire age: Check sidewall for manufacture date (week/year). Tires older than 6 years should be replaced.
- Spare tire: Check if spare is included and in good condition.
- Suspension: Push down on car's corners. It should bounce 2β3 times then settle. Excessive bouncing = worn suspension.
Interior Inspection (4 minutes)
- Seats and upholstery: Check for tears, stains, or excessive wear. Leather cracking? Fabric fading?
- Dashboard: Look for cracks, peeling, or damage. Test all buttons (AC, heater, wipers, lights).
- Steering wheel: Check for wear or damage. Should be smooth to turn with no grinding noises.
- Air conditioning: Turn on A/C. Does it blow cold air? After 20 seconds should be noticeably cold.
- Windows and locks: Test all windowsβshould move smoothly. Central locking should work from driver's door.
- Warning lights: Check dashboard. Are any warning lights on? Red warning lights = potential problems.
- Odometer: Check mileage against service records. Large jumps suggest it hasn't been serviced regularly.
Engine Bay Inspection (4 minutes)
π‘ Note: Inspect with engine cold. Never open radiator cap when engine is hot.
- Oil level and color: Pull dipstick. Oil should reach "full" mark. Color should be golden/brown, not black or milky.
- Coolant level and color: Check expansion tank (not radiator). Coolant should be green, pink, or orange. Milky = internal leak.
- Hoses and connections: Look for leaks, cracks, or loose connections. Squeeze hoses gentlyβshould be firm, not brittle.
- Battery: Check for corrosion (white/blue crusty deposits). Battery should be secure. Check age on label.
- Engine cleanliness: Very dirty engine = poor maintenance. Some dirt is normal.
- Leaks: Look underneath engine for oil stains or leaks. Small drips acceptable, pools = problem.
Test Drive (5 minutes)
- Starting: Engine should start smoothly without excessive cranking. No grinding noises.
- Idling: Engine should idle smoothly without shaking. Check for unusual sounds or smells.
- Acceleration: Gradual acceleration should feel smooth. No hesitation, jerking, or loss of power.
- Braking: Brake response should be firm and immediate. No soft pedal or grinding sounds.
- Steering: Steering should respond smoothly. No pulling to one side. No excessive play.
- Transmission: Smooth gear shifts (manual or automatic). No slipping or grinding.
- Unusual noises: Listen for knocking, squealing, grinding, or rattling. Identify source if present.
- Smells: Any burning, sweet, or fuel smells? These indicate problems.
Documentation Verification (2 minutes)
- VIN Match: Compare VIN on log book with:
- β’ Chassis plate (usually on driver's door jamb)
- β’ Engine block
- β’ Insurance certificate
- Mileage consistency: Compare odometer reading with service records. Should be consistent progression.
- Service history: Review service records. Should show regular oil changes (every 5,000β10,000 km).
- Ownership history: How many previous owners? Ownership changes should match log book entries.
Red Flags: Walk Away Immediately If You Notice:
- π« VIN mismatch (likely stolen or re-badged vehicle)
- π« Milky coolant or oil (engine internal damage)
- π« Heavy oil leaks or active dripping
- π« Grinding sounds during braking
- π« Engine hesitation or loss of power
- π« Transmission slipping or rough shifts
- π« Steering pulls strongly to one side
- π« Dashboard warning lights that won't turn off
- π« Odometer mismatch with service records (odometer fraud)
- π« Large rust areas or structural damage
Quick Scoring System
Rate the vehicle on a 1β10 scale for each category:
8β10 = Excellent condition
6β7 = Good condition (minor wear expected)
4β5 = Fair condition (needs repairs, negotiate price down)
Below 4 = Poor condition (walk away unless heavily discounted)
When to Hire a Professional Mechanic
Consider hiring an independent mechanic (KES 3,000β5,000) if:
- Car costs above KES 2 million
- High mileage (above 150,000 km)
- You noticed multiple issues during inspection
- Seller won't let you get pre-purchase inspection
- You're unsure about your mechanical knowledge
Ready to start your inspection?
Download and print this checklist, or keep it on your phone during the inspection.
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